Thanks to the d'Este family of astute art patrons, Ferrara contains many beautiful objects de arte, but the genuine masterpiece is the city itself. Half medieval, half Renaissance, the dual cityscape was the vision of oligarch Ercole d'Este, who hired architect Biagio Rossetti to seamlessly meld the newer section to the old. Today, its captivating, anachronistic ambience is best explored on foot or by bicycle.
Touring the sites will occupy a day, but after that the best way to experience Ferrara is to relax at one (or several) of its cafes and enjoy la vita italiana going on around you.
SOME OF THE SIGHTS
Castello Estense (Viale Cavour)
Ferrara's signature piece is a towering castle commissioned by Nicolo II D'Este in 1385. You won't miss it!
Duomo (Piazza Cattedrale)
Ferrara's cathedral is a pink and white 12th century masterpiece combining Romanesque and Gothic styles. Harry particularly likes the upper level which is a graphic representation of the Last Judgement, complete with people clambering out of their coffins. Alex particularly likes the cafe opposite - 'Leon D'Oro' which serves amazing coffees, pastries and rich, thick hot chocolate.
Palazzo dei Diamanti (Corso Ercole 1 d'Este 21)
Named after the spiky diamond shaped ashlar stones on it facade, the 'diamond palace' was built in the late 15th century.
Palazzo Schifanoia (Via Scandiana, 23)
Ferrara's most famous frescoes are in the Este's 14th century pleasure palace built in 1384. Go to the Salone dei Mesi which has frescoes that are the only ones of their type in Italy, depicting the months, seasons and signs of the Zodiac.
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
Must try - Cappellacci di Zucca (Ferrara's signature dish of pumpkin filled pasta) or Pasticcio (traditional Ferrarese maccheroni pie)
- Il Brindisi (via Adelardi 11): Wooden, atmospheric, and crammed with dusty wine bottles, this charming enoteca is the oldest winebar in the world (according to Guiness) and had Copernicus as a tenant while he was a student in Ferrara. Although most come at night to drink, they also serve exclusively Ferrarese fare such as pasticcio and cappellacci di zucca for dinner (the portions are small, so make sure to eat a real Italian meal and order both a primo and a secondo).
- Osteria del Ghetto (via Vittoria 26): An understated jewel amid the winding streets of Ferrara's old Jewish ghetto. The menu mixes Ferrara staples such as Cappellacci di Zucca and a good fish menu.
- Tratoria da Neomi (via Ragno 31): All of Ferrara's classic dishes are delivered with molto amore here! Grilled meats, pasticcio and you guessed it - the cities best cappellacci di zucca!
- Il Cucco (via Voltecasotto 3): This charming and inexpensive trattoria offers a variety of local Ferrarese specialties. Garden seating available in warmer weather.
- Osteria Quatro Angeli (Piazza della Republica): Relax beneath sausage shaped salamis opposite the castle and demolish enormous portions of Ferrarese classics supplemented by cuts of local cured meats. Gets lively!
- Al Frattino: Follow Via Mazzini as it turns into Via Saraceno and turn onto Via Porta San Pietro at the top. On the corner of San Pietro and Via Carlo Mayr is a small, unremarkable-looking Sicilian pizzeria which serves without a doubt the best pizza in town. Try the "Diablo" and make sure to chat with the friendly owners, even if it's in sign language.
- Bar Settimo (Via Cortevecchia). Don't be put off by the dingy bar at the front. At the back is one of the friendliest restaurants in Italy, presided over by the splendid Norberto. The food is simple but excellent and not at all expensive. Pizzas and Salama da Sugo con Pure are particularly good. For years it has been the favourite watering hole for performers at the Teatro Communale and Ferrara Musica. After concerts the place is very lively and, unusually for Ferrara, it closes late.
- The Piazza: If you're in Ferrara on a Wednesday night, do yourself a favour and go out to the main piazza. There you will find every young person in the city (and some older ones too) out socializing at the piazza in front of the looming Duomo facade with beer in hand (acquired at Settimo or Bar del Duomo for just around €2-4). An experience not to be missed.
- Tsunami: Located at Via Savanarola 2, just down the street from the University. Very popular with the students, packed most weekend and Wednesday nights, also Tuesday nights which are traditionally "Erasmus Night," dedicated to the many foreign students who spend the semester or year here.
- Il'Clandestino: If you can find it in the backstreets (Via Ragno 35/37), this bar has a lively atmosphere...not to mention the board games and the craft beer from the Biren brewery.
- Maracaibo: Located just around the corner from Mel Bookstore, this bar is the best place for l'aperitivo in Ferrara, mainly due to the fact that a single drink will also get you a plateful of fantastic appetizers, out of which cheapskate students know they can make a dinner.
- Pepe Rosa: At Via San Romano 99, this bar offers a generous and delicious buffet at aperitivo hour. Don't forget to order the spritz, a northern Italian apertif cocktail made up of prosecco and Aperol.
AROUND FERRARA:
If you're planning on making a trip of it - Venice, Florence, Verona and Bologna are roughly within an hour! ENJOY!
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